Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Warm Sponges

I have decided to move my recipes to my blogsite.  It's easier to work with and it's free!

The type of oven that you are working with makes the biggest difference in the overall result of the quality of the pastry that you are making whether it's sponge mixtures, cakes, cheesecakes, or even cookies.  The best ovens are deck ovens that are tile lined on the inside with temperature controls for both the top and the bottom heating elements and a vent control.  Convection ovens move the heat around the pastry too fast.  Before the proteins in the pastry begin to coagulate the the expansion of the air trapped within the pastry have already exceeded their limit.  This leads to dry and crumbly sponges, cracked cheesecakes, and so on.  If you are working with a convection oven set the fan on the lowest level and always rotate 3/4 into the baking time.  Pastry is a science after all.  If there is one book I could recommend it would be Harold Mcgee's On Food and Cooking.    Read it.

On some of the recipe's, lg flour means (low gluten flour), mg flour (medium gluten flour), and hg flour (high gluten flour).  

Check for daily updates and additions for recipes.  

To prepare the genoise, crack the eggs in a clean stainless bowl and add the sugar.  Mix immediately until thoroughly mixed.  Never add the sugar, leave it, and do something else.  The sugar will start coagulating with the yolk of the egg and then you would get lumps (coagulated eggs in your mix).    Place over a double boiler while continously mixing until 43 deg. C./110 deg. F.  You can do this over direct heat, you just have to be careful that you don't make scrambled eggs.  Strain the mixture into a mixing bowl.  Whip on high speed until the mixture triples in volume.  You should be able to clearly see the trail of the whip.  This takes some experience in knowing when the sponge is ready.  Fold in the flour too early and the sponge will collapse.  
Sift the dry ingredients.  Fold into the sponge with a spatula or a plastic scraper.  Always fold in one direction and make sure the flour is thorougly mixed before adding the butter or other liquids.
Melt the butter.  If you are adding glucose and/or milk add to the butter once its melted and warm till lukewarm.  Mix part of the sponge mix with the butter/butter mix with a whisk and then fold into the mix.  Pour into prepared pans and bake.  Japanese genoise recipes have glucose and milk which creates a whole different texture to the genoise.  It collapses the sponge a bit yet, creates a moist soft texture to the genoise.    

Oven temp. for rings:
top/180 deg. C.  bottom/170 deg. C.

For sheets:
top/220 deg. C.  bottom/200 deg. C.

Convection for rings:
170 deg. C.

Convection for sheets:
180 deg. C.

 

Warm Sponge
Genoise: 1-8" Chocolate Genoise: 1-8"
egg 3 pc. eggs 3 pc.
sugar 100 g. sugar 100 g.
flour 100 g. flour 80 g.
butter 20 g. cocoa 20 g.
butter 20 g.
Sand Mixture Chocolate Sand Mixture
egg 300 g. egg 300 g.
sugar 200 g. sugar 210 g.
flour 180 g. flour 160 g.
cornstarch 20 g. cocoa 20 g.
vanilla 5 g. cornstarch 20 g.
butter 150 g. vanilla 5 g.
butter 50 g.
Mocha Genoise: 1-9" Vienna Mixture
eggs 4 pc. egg 300 g.
sugar 120 g. sugar 200 g.
flour 100 g. flour 200 g.
butter 30 g. butter 150 g.
coffee powder 10 g.
Hazelnut Sponge: 1-8" Almond Sponge with Butter: 1-8"
eggs 3 pc. eggs 3 pc.
sugar 120 g. sugar 90 g.
flour 90 g. flour 75 g.
hazelnut flour 90 g. almond flour 45 g.
butter 75 g. butter 25 g.
Genoise D'Amande (PH) Genoise (Japan)
almond paste 50% 60 g. egg 3 pc.
sugar 50 g. sugar 100 g.
yolks 33 g. flour 100 g.
eggs 150 g. butter 20 g.
bread flour 100 g. glucose 5 g.
melted butter 350 g. milk 28 ml.
Genoise (Japan) II 2-8cm. Genoise (Japan) PP
eggs 294 g. egg 1215 g.
sugar 170 g. yolk 135 g.
honey 16 g. sugar  810 g.
glucose 16 g. lg flour 810 g.
lg flour 170 g. milk 162 g.
butter 23 g. butter 162 g.
milk 40 g.

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